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On Tapa His Game

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This is the tapas bar I had in mind all along,” says Jason Dady, the chef and co-owner of the Bin. The forty-year-old is chatting with customers at a tall wooden table in a converted twenties-era bungalow on Grayson Street, the up-and-coming mini–restaurant row north of downtown San Antonio. It’s getting dark outside on a chilly evening in late fall, but the small frame house is warm and welcoming, with interior walls painted yellow and red and a couple of fire pits and mix-and-match tables out back. People are queueing up to order at the bar, with repeat visitors offering tips to newcomers unfamiliar with Spain’s whimsical but convoluted snack culture. One party wrestles with the vocabulary (what the heck is the difference between a…

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